I arrived in Cameron Highlands just after lunch and at first, it’s fair to say I was a little disappointed. I’d created a picture in my mind similar to where I had just left in Australia and of course, this was not the same. Instead, the touristic town where I would be staying was a hub of activity, the main road near constantly covered by a trail of vehicles. People, traffic and noise still seemed to be everywhere.
After having one day to relax, reading in the hostel, enjoying some Indian food (although I would love to focus on Malaysian food while here, I’m finding Indian to be a much safer choice when trying to eat vegan), and taking a short walk to what turned out to be a dirty, litter covered waterfall, I made plans to go on a half day tour during my second morning.
The tour had its ups and downs. My lack of research on some elements left me feeling severely disappointed with myself and horrified for the animals within, after I realised I’d unwittingly given money toward a strange kind of place which was sold as a butterfly farm and was really more a place to keep an odd variety of poorly looked after animals. The tour guide, for all his niceties, felt more like a simple taxi service for a good portion of the tour.
This is the day that I finally began to accept Malaysia for what it was, rather than struggling to deal with the differences between it and how I envisaged things to be.
Despite my despondent feelings, I couldn’t deny the beauty of the endless multi shades of green as we drove into the BOH tea plantation. Originally started by a man from Scotland, this is the oldest plantation in the area and supplies tea to all of Malaysia. The company also has an interest in conservation work for animals such as the orangutan as well as stating an environmentally conscious outlook throughout their small museum.
The tour ended in a positive note. Taking us a small way along a jungle trail, the guide finally had the chance to excel in conversation and the knowledge he was able to share. Walking along a sponge like floor in what they call a ‘mossy forest’ type jungle, with a much cooler climate to the famous Taman Negara further east, he showed us a variety of plants explaining their medicinal value, a golden leaf that the aborigines use as face make up and told us a little about the animals of this jungle (the largest creature being a mountain goat).
My passion to explore reignited by this brief reunion with nature, I made my way along a different trail in the afternoon to find Robinson Waterfall, more impressive than Parit Falls (the previous waterfall I’d seen) and less of a tourist attraction.
Despite there being a footpath (a rather haphazard one at that) and large pipes running to one side, the sound of running water, birds and an uncountable mixture of insects had me fully enjoying myself. So much so, that I began to meander further into the increasingly jungle like surroundings, until I paused to recall why people hadn’t suggested this trail as a walking option. The sudden realisation I was heading along the track particularly known for theft had me doing a quick about turn toward town.
My final morning in the Cameron Highlands, feeling almost fully recovered, I set off on my most exciting venture of Malaysia so far, heading for jungle Trail No. 10.
A trail which led me first through what felt like an overgrown wild garden, then between a thin, orange brown clay walled passage, which appeared to have been carved directly through an embankment. I continued along a path of varying quality, sometimes half washed away by some rain induced landslide. Becoming amazingly steep for the second half, the incline was divided by tree root steps often above knee height, sometimes so tall that climbing was the only option.
I didn’t see much in the way of wildlife, my excited squeek of surprise as a squirrel popped its head through the hole of a tree I’d just been admiring meant it didn’t stick in my company for too long. I was more than content in appreciating the thin, tall tree trunks surrounding me, vines looping and twisting between.
I reached the peak much sooner than expected. In the jungle one moment, at the top and into a clearing the next, gazing out in wonder over the surrounding deep green hills, populated here and there with the bright green of a tea leaf ready for harvest.
After taking time to enjoy the view, even running back up a minute after I’d begun my descent for one final look, my journey back down took me along a gravel, dirt track road. A view of the tallest mountain in the Cameron Highlands becoming the focal point for much of the way down.
My perfect morning continued as I reached tarmac road and was shortly afterward offered a lift back to town by a local farmer.
I was glad to have persevered a little longer in the Highlands, giving myself a chance to acclimatise to the country I know has so much to offer. I left feeling open and ready for whatever I was too encounter next.
