From Te Araroa I had the first, and what turned out to be the only, windy day of my journey. After an initial ocean view the road once again turned inland and the next few hours were dedicated to green landscapes and winding roads. My battle with the wind, alongside my tiredness, meant I really didn’t appreciate the beauty and the peacefulness of the morning until it was over. Although delayed however, I think I am left with a longer lasting enjoyment as I look back and don’t see my frustration, but instead picture the remote country and the lack of traffic.
I rejoined the coast early afternoon and aside from the wind, my biggest issue was having to restrain myself from continually stopping to take pictures, a challenge which became more and more difficult as the sun began to set. Despite this I reached the campsite in good time and after speedily pitching the tent I went back to the site shop, ordered some chips, and sat at a table gazing out at the remainder of the setting sun.
The following day, somehow feeling rejuvenated, I was up and away by 7:30am, mind and body ready for the challenges ahead. Stopping twenty minutes in to put on sun cream, I had the obligatory local wishing me luck over ‘those big hills’ after he had established my destination.
Well, I don’t know whether it was my state of mind or an increase in fitness, but the hills were over just as I felt I was getting into the swing of them! I passed yet another group of enthusiastic road men on my way, wholeheartedly agreeing with them that it was indeed a great day to be cycling.
It was as I neared Opotiki (the biggest town since Gisborne with a population of 4,200), and left the East Cape behind, that I really began to appreciate just how picturesque and peaceful my last few days had been. I could no longer let myself drift into the centre of the road, as ten cars could pass me in five minutes, rather than five hours. Drivers were also less amiable. I had become accustomed to waves and the occasional peep of encouragement, now I was lucky to be acknowledged.
Opotiki was to be one of the last with a small town relaxed kiwi feel that I would see for a few days. After a relaxing afternoon here, I set out the next day for a relatively easy ride. Flat, open landscape along the roadside led to distant hills in one direction and the occasional ocean view in the other.
I passed by Matata Wildlife Reserve in the final half hour of my ride, joyfully witnessing shadows cast among the greenery as the sun began to sink.
From the next morning I began to experience a very different New Zealand than the one I had become accustomed to.
Towns I passed through became more and more littered with holiday villas. I felt as though I was drifting further from the wholesome country life with every moment and I didn’t really like it. The atmosphere, to me at least, became less welcoming and metropolitan in feel though not in size, as I neared the renowned vacation spot of Mt Maunganui.
It was the need of a rest day alone that made me stay two nights here, but by the end of the first evening I found if I avoided the human imprint, I could still rely on New Zealand’s captivating natural beauty. Barely two minutes walk from my tent, I sat by the beach letting the lights fade behind me, as I fully immersed myself in the faintly moonlit ocean and the constellations above.