Queen Charlotte Track

The day after setting foot on the South Island, CeCe and I began our first trek. This was to be a three day journey over 71km (45 miles) within Queen Charlotte Sound, carrying everything we would need on with us including tent, sleeping bags and food.

We were up early, needing to be at the dock ready for the water taxi to take us to the track starting point at 7:30am. Leaving the dock at 8am, we then had an hour long boat journey to Ship Cove. This is the start of the track and a location visited by Cook on five separate occasions which, apart from a monument and toilet block, is supposed to be in similar condition today at it was then.

Our skipper pointed out three small islands towards the end of the journey, each one taking in an import part in harbouring New Zealand’s native wildlife. The islands are kept predator free (from animals such as possums, rats, etc), to enable animals such as the kiwi to exist in safety as reserve workers try to increase the numbers of these populations.

By 9:30am we were beginning the walk, passing the 71km sign to go as we did so! There was no easing into things, with the first few kilometres being a fairly steep ascent. Not without it’s reward however, with views spreading across the Sound both in front and behind us as we reached the top. Reminding us just why it was worth the effort, a deep blue expanse ran from left to right, it’s path guided by green hills on either side. The deep green patterned by yellows, reds and silvers of autumnal trees.

After the initial climb, walking through the rest of the day was a steady mix of ups, downs and flats. We continued to be delighted as different vistas of the Sound came into view and we made our way through a diverse range of terrain.

As the day wore on, I likened our constantly changing surroundings to a simple television sketch, where a character walks along the middle of the screen whilst different backgrounds play out behind them. One minute we could be walking through a lush green forest, the next there were few trees and a rock wall to our right would be adorned with flora in yellows, browns, greens and greys, the mass of colours complementing each other perfectly. Following this we could be walking through a forest from a haunted film, eerie and damp.

Completing the first 27km, we arrived at our first campsite as night fell, making me extremely grateful for my recently purchased head torch. A quick scout around revealed a couple of smallish grassy patches for pitching the tents, a shelter complete with table and sink and a toilet block.

It’s safe to say our evening was short and sweet. The tent was put up, food cooked and eaten, quick washes had in the sink and we were in bed by 20:30!

Despite planning to be on our way by 7:30am the following morning, we rolled out of bed around 7:15am. Rushed out of the door by the condensation dripping from all sides of the tent (this is what happens when you buy a tent for the bargain price of $46). Refuelling with our amazing breakfast oats, we were finally on our way by 9:20am. Straight up another big hill.

After around an hour of climbing, the gradient levelled out allowing us to catch our breath and enjoy our surroundings. Much of the morning was spent walking through green and yellow woodland, the highlight being a number of bright red mushrooms with white specs that grew along the edge of the path. We did wonder if these could make us ‘level up’ as with the Super Mario red mushrooms, but thought it best not to try.

The amazing diversity of wildlife continued throughout our second day, the views of the Sound seemed to become all the more incredible. As with the first day, our hike began with the highest and longest ascent, then becoming a flow of ups and downs as we followed the contours of the rolling hills.

Our final morning began with a 407m climb and from here slowly became much more level or downhill throughout the day. We had the usual variety of terrain, only this time with rainforest and dessert like environments added to the list. I continued to be astounded by the scenery that New Zealand seems able to offer, all within such closer proximity.

During our last few kilometres we were joined by a man who was returning from a day walk, having passed us going the opposite way earlier in the afternoon. He and CeCe bonded through being not only fellow Canadians, but Canadians who had both lived in Japan.

It was nice to have a distraction and some new conversation throughout our final leg of the journey, as well as someone to take our photo at the 1km remaining marker. It was even nicer when he ended up giving us a lift back to our hostel in Picton, saving us from a possible long wait by the roadside in the hope of hitching a ride.