Bolaven Plateau, Pakse

I didn’t get to see much of Pakse itself, being a little worried about running out of time for everything else I wanted to do in Laos. I decided to only spend one full day in the area and used this to visit the Bolaven Plateau, or at least a small part of it. I arranged to hire a motorbike and completed what is known as the ‘Small loop’ of the area. The views I saw throughout the day took my breath away and I vowed to myself to come back and complete the ‘Big Loop’ over several days when time allows it.

Up early to be at the motorbike hire shop for 7am, I was on my way by just after 8am. I got off to an interesting start, finding that although it was my first time on a semi-automatic my driving skills weren’t too bad, however I drove off in the knowledge I was unable to kick start the bike myself which could make for an interesting journey…

Two minutes down the road after filling up with petrol, I spent an embarrassing minute trying to kick start, before the man working there came to do it for me. After a second such incident where I stopped and needed help restarting the vehicle, I reached my first intended destination. The first waterfall was nice for a quick stop but did not astound me, I think a long walk may have been needed to get a proper view, and as I had heard there was a much more impressive waterfall a little further along I moved on after ten minutes. This time my motorbike starting skills improved, slightly. I managed to kick start the vehicle, and then preceded to flail my legs a little as it nearly set off down the street without me. Still, at least I had started it this time.

The second waterfall, Tad Yeung, crept up so much sooner than I had expected that I passed the entrance and had to turn around. I then drive 800m down my second dirt/gravel road of the day and on reaching the entrance, had to leave my bike behind for the final 150m.

My first view of the waterfall was more of a stream with some soft flowing sections between rocks. This ran a curved blue path through its been surroundings, with two small arched bridges allowing you to reach both sides. Once on the other side of a bridge I was able to move round for a top down view of the actual waterfall. Viewing from the top I peered down the 50m cascade, making sure to have some firm footing after all the danger signs. I could see the mist rising as it hit the pool below, and with the sun in the sky, these droplets created a small rainbow.

Shortly after this I realised you could walk all the way around the other side and get a face on view, and on arriving there, I also found you got a face full of water. It was definitely worth it, and in fact the water was quite refreshing.

On my exit from this waterfall a nice couple finally had the heart to tell me the problem with my run away bike was that it was in first rather than neutral, which is of course obvious when you actually think about it… My kick start skills went onwards and upwards from this point!

I reached Paksong by 12pm, stopping here for a coffee and to check the map. As this was about a third of the way round I now had to decide whether I had enough time to complete the circuit, or if I should head back in the same direction. I estimated I would be back by 3pm if I went the same way back (taking time out for the stops I had made) and I really didn’t want to do half a job of it, so deciding to power through the next third to make up time I was off again.

With noticeably less traffic and settlements around, I really felt quite free out on my own in the wilderness, and with nothing but the mountainous views for company, I enjoyed a sing song as I sped through the country road. I reached the end of this section in around one and a half hours and was safe in the knowledge I could relax for the last section and still be back by 6pm to return the bike. I also decided I now had time for a much talked about village, Tad Lor.

I was immediately impressed, walking over a bridge with a waterfall on the right, which flowed into a river on the left. As I walked further into the village I could feel such a serene atmosphere, small guesthouses on either side of the road all seemed to possess their own little character, portrayed through simple decorations such as home made wind chimes, plant pots or colourful wooden signs.

After just half an hour I sadly had to move on for the long road home, wanting to ensure I returned to Pakse before dark. Tad Lor definitely left an impression on me however, hopefully one day I will return with time to fully appreciate all it had to offer.