Our first full day on Flores started early as we had arranged a boat trip to Komodo and Rinca Islands to see the famous Komodo dragons. By 8am we were on the boat and on our way to Rinca. Or so we thought. Twenty minutes into our journey the boat engine stopped. One hour later we were informed we would be going back to shore and the trip would begin again tomorrow.

Now we had a problem, what on earth were we going to do with our day? Labuan Bajo is a great base for organising trips and events, there is however, very little to do in the town itself. After some consideration Laura, Taavi (an Estonian who was on our boat trip) and I decided to get motorbikes to see some more of the island.

Due to time constraints we only had time enough to visit the closest waterfall to Labuan Bajo, Cunca Wulang. This was still 30 km away allowing time for some great scenic views. The way out of town was soon surrounded by bright greens on either side as we moved into the country, the route taking us up a steep winding road which gifted us with excellent views of Labuan Bajo and the sea beyond.

An hour or so of driving and we finally saw the sign for the waterfall, leading off the main road into a dirt track. I enjoyed the challenge this posed, having flashbacks from my time on the Thakhek Loop, although I did not appreciate the inability to stand and ride the bumps being on an automatic this time rather than a semi.

At the end of the dirt road we reached a village headed by a tourist information office. Some men stood around this area advised us to park our bikes in front of the office and that there was a 30 minute walk to the waterfall from this point. They then preceded to try to convince us to take a guide for the walk down, for the bargain price of 60k IDR. Sure we would be able to find the waterfall alone, we politely refused and set off on our way. Our entire walk through the village was then continually interrupted by men hoping to be our guide for the journey, none of which we accepted.

The trail took us onto a jungle path 20 minutes downhill until we had our first glimpse of a stream leading away from the waterfall. Continuing to walk a short distance alongside the water we soon had the actual waterfall in our sights. Dumping our things on a raised flat rock we were quick to climb in and cool off. Taking the lead, Taavi swam to the other side, climbed back out and made his way over taller rock and out of sight. Following, we soon saw his destination. The crashing waterfall was framed between two rock walls, both curving outwards at water level, presumably worn away through years of force.

After we all tried our skills edging along one of the rock walls whilst the water pushed against us, trying to get as near to the waterfall as possible, we then let it’s current take us back out and took position on a nearby rock. Then we just took time, to enjoy the moment, the scenery, the whole travelling situation we were all a part of.

It was nearly 5pm by the time we were heading back out of the village. We were stopped briefly by a group of villagers crowded around what appeared to be a social hall, some playing pool inside whilst others were concentrating on the mango tree outside. We were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves given several mangoes for free.

Then finally we are back on the bikes, (Taavi and Laura on one, me on the other) aiming to be back at the hostel before dark. This plan was put to a halt quite quickly however, when five minutes up the road Taavi and Laura realised their back tyre was flat. We had no other choice but to head back to the village and hope they would help us.

As soon as we reappeared a crowd began to gather to see what commotion we were creating. In record time some of the men set to work with a hand pump and soon had our tyre re-inflated. Our joy was shot lived however, as the tyre immediately began to flatten again. The village didn’t have a tyre shop and we were told the largest such vendor existed 2 km away, up the dirt road. After some deliberation we opted for me attempting to drive the bike to the top while Taavi and Laura rode the other bike.

Just as we were about to head on our way Benjo, one of the villagers, stopped me as he worried it would be too dangerous. He told us he had a friend who was able to repair tyres and could we wait a while for him to come back. Faced with little alternative we accepted and walked up the street to park outside his friend’s house. After waiting 20 minutes or so with no sign of his friend, Benjo invited us to wait in his house, where his mother could cook us some food. We had only eaten breakfast and fruit all day so we gratefully accepted his offer and followed him back down the street.

His house was simple and functional, and though there was the lack of furniture and creature comforts that decorate a Western home it felt very welcoming. Made largely from wood with a two high stone wall base, the first room was a quite a large open plan living space. There were two bedrooms leading off at different points and a large room at the back which appeared to lead to the kitchen. The floor was simply the same as the ground outside and wall decorations were limited to family photographs or religious shrines. In the corner of the room was a television and digi box, quite a contrast to the rest of the room. A short way into the evening we were amused to find ourselves in a crowded room, many family members and neighbours gathered to watch the television, watching an Indonesian Hell’s Kitchen. It felt a very surreal situation.

The wonderfully welcome villagers

By 7pm we were starting to become a little nervous, Benjo’s friend had still not appeared and although Benjo had offered us a bed for the night we needed to be back in Labuan Bajo to begin our already paid for boat trip in the morning. After much deliberation, and some delicious tea provided by his mother, Benjo volunteered to drive me back to town while Taavi and Laura took the other bike. He would then ensure the flat tyre was repaired and the bike returned the following day. We were amazed at the selflessness of this man and the lengths he was willing to go to for some strangers, it was truly touching.

And so my evening ended with the most beautiful journey under one of the clearest skies I have ever seen. I gazed up at the countless stars as Benjo drove us slowly back down the winding road, such a sense of peace settling over me.